Undiscovered Scotland

 

Northmavine so very nearly ended up as a separate island. The complex geography at the southern end of Sullom Voe separates Northmavine from the Atlantic at Mavis Grind by not much more than 100m. The Vikings used to haul their longships overland here to avoid sailing around the rocky shores of Northmavine.

The area is dominated by Ronas Hill, at 1475ft or 450m, Shetland's highest hill. On a nice day the summit affords superb views across much of Shetland and is usually reached via the track leading from Colla Firth to the masts at Collafirth Hill. From there the last two miles to Ronas Hill are cross country.

Northmavine's north and west coasts show very clearly why Vikings might have wanted to avoid them. A jagged jumble of black cliffs, stacks, arches, islets and skerries, this is some of the most spectacular coastal scenery you will find anywhere. Perhaps the best and most easily accessible views are from Eshaness Lighthouse.

The south-west side of Northmavine is focused on Hillswick, originally a fishing station and later a resort village focused on the St Magnus Bay Hotel, built by the shipping company serving Shetland. North of here is the steep-sided and fjord-like Ronas Voe, biting deeply into the west side of Northmavine and home to a now long gone fishing settlement at Heylor.

The most northern part of Northmavine is focused on the crofting township of North Roe. North of here the land is wild and rocky, but was once the site of intense activity at the fishing station at Fethaland, home to a large fishing fleet: but now empty of everything but the ghosts of the fishermen and the remains of their lodges.

South from North Roe is Collafirth Pier, opened in 1988 and now the main focus for fishing on Northmavine. It is also home to one of Scotland's largest fishing boats, the Altaire. South again is the village of Ollaberry, near where Yell Sound becomes Sullom Voe. This is at the heart of the little good farmland that exists on Northmavine and is one of the main centres of population in the area. It is also home to an attractive church and churchyard next to the pier.

As you near Mavis Grind en route back to Brae and Mainland Shetland, a sign directs you along a minor road to Sullom. This lies on the west side of Sullom Voe, and looks across it to Scatsta Airport. Sullom was where, on 13 November 1939, some of the first bombs fell on British soil in World War II, presumably intended for the flying boat base at Sullom Voe. The only casualty was a rabbit: allegedly the inspiration for the popular song of the time, "run rabbit run".