Undiscovered Scotland

 

Drimnin can stake a claim to be one of the most remote places in Scotland. It lies at the end of 12 miles of single track road from Lochaline, which is itself 30 miles from the Corran Ferry, 18 miles of which is single track road. Sitting on the north-east shore of the Sound of Mull, almost opposite Tobermory, it occupies a superb location with striking views over Mull.

The name of Drimnin is open to some debate. The settlement at the end of the public B849 is referred to by that name on the Ordnance Survey 1:250,000 map, yet their 1:50,000 map refers to it as Bunavullin, reserving "Drimnin" for the scatter of cottages further north-west along a network of private estate roads.

And to add further confusion, the old mile markers on the A849 refer to Bonnavoulin. But the roadsigns on entering the settlement and the ferry timetables both call it Drimnin, so that's what we'll stick with here. (Continues below image...)

 

The end of the public road is at a jetty from which the passenger ferry to Tobermory runs, twice weekly for most of the year: on Mondays and Fridays. This comes complete with a crinkly tin waiting room and, nearby, a cairn erected in memory of Charles Maclean of Drimnin, who was killed in 1746 at the Battle of Culloden while leading the Clan Maclean in the "forced absence of their chief". Overlooking the small bay into which the ferry pier projects is a remarkable glass house (plus wigwam) that would not look out of place on TV's "Grand Designs", plus another that looked to have started out equally ambitiously before ending up as possibly the oddest boat shed we've seen.

Just to the south a side road leads steeply down to the shore at what may properly be called Bunavullin: cottages gathered around and above another extremely attractive bay with views over to Mull. Here you find the old school. A little further south again and back along the B849 is the Post Office: the only shop in Drimnin. Perhaps a mile to the south the old church stands above the road, almost shrouded in rhododendrons. This is being converted into a house.

As you head back towards Lochaline from Drimnin, the B849 runs through extremely attractive countryside. Where it crosses the Killundine River, the map shows a chapel on the south shore of the river: we could find no sign either of a chapel of of any access to one.

Rather more obvious, a little further along the road towards Lochaline, are the remains of Caisteal nan Con, standing on a promontory at the mouth of a bay. Its age is unknown, though what is left looks vaguely 1500s, and it is believed to have been built on the site of an ancient fort. The castle was used by the residents of Aros Castle on Mull as a hunting lodge in Morvern.

Further on, as the shore of Morvern curves around to head in a more easterly direction, you come across a remarkable rock simply sitting on the inland side of the road. At first sight this looks like the remains of a man-made wall, complete with window: but closer examination proves it is indeed completely natural, if extremely unusual.

The 12 mile trip from Lochaline out to Drimnin (and back) is an extremely pleasant run through some very attractive countryside: and gives some excellent views of Mull. There's not a great deal to do once you arrive except turn round and come back, but for those who like to find out what's at the end of every road, this trip is a must.