Undiscovered Scotland

 

Wester Ross is the part of the traditional county of Ross-shire that lies west of the watershed. Ross-shire later became part of Ross and Cromarty and now forms part of the Highland unitary council area. The boundaries of Wester Ross have varied over time, so while the name is widely used, the exact area it is applied to can be unclear. For our purposes we have taken the most widely used modern interpretation, which includes Ullapool, Achiltibuie, Gairloch, Achnasheen, Applecross and Lochcarron: but excludes Lochalsh. For accommodation in Wester Ross see the links in the "See and Stay" menu above. See the map below for an outline of the area and links to surrounding areas.

Situated on Loch Broom and only 59 miles from Inverness, Ullapool is the largest settlement in Wester Ross. Ullapool started life as a herring station to a Thomas Telford design in 1788. It is also an excellent base from which to explore the Northwest Highlands. Most of the main roads north of here have been upgraded over the years, and staying in Ullapool and using it as a touring base is now a viable and attractive option. For those wanting to know more about the area the excellent Ullapool Museum & Visitor Centre on West Argyle Street can be highly recommended.

 

Accessed from the A832, close to its junction with the A835 twelve miles south-east of Ullapool, is Corrieshalloch Gorge, a spectacularly deep, mile long box canyon through which the River Droma descends towards Loch Broom, en route forming the 150ft high Falls of Measach.

For the most part, however, visitors to Ullapool are looking north, towards the glorious mountains and scenery of western Sutherland. Three miles north of Ullapool lies Ardmair Point, which offers a camp site and other accommodation as well as boat hire and a range of activities.

Twenty five miles north-west of Ullapool on the Coigach Peninsula is the old crofting village of Achiltibuie with views to the Summer Isles and beyond. Achiltibuie is home to the Summer Isles Hotel, renowned for its fine dining and friendly bar.

Further west a loop of minor road takes in a number of tiny settlements including Altandhu, complete with its Smokehouse, where fish, meat and game are cured in the traditional Scottish way. Also nearby is the coastal community of Reiff. En route to the far end of Coigach you pass Stac Pollaidh, an amazingly knobbly little mountain.

Gairloch is the collective name for a number of small settlements overlooking Loch Gairloch. It has been a popular tourist resort since Victorian times, attractive for its scenic location and fine sandy beaches. Sunsets here can be magical and the views west to Skye and inland to the Torridon mountains are spectacular. The most southerly of Gairloch's separate settlements, and home to its harbour, is Charlestown.

There are some wonderful beaches to explore in and around Gairloch. A short distance to the west is Big Sand from where a single track road goes to Melvaig. From this tiny crofting hamlet the road continues to Rubha Reidh Point where there is a converted lighthouse. Beyond the headland lies Camas Mor beach, a beautiful and secluded place. The Gairloch Heritage Museum offers plenty of interest for a rainy day. Three miles south of Gairloch is Badachro, a former fishing village in a picturesque setting. The road from here winds south a further five miles to Redpoint, a tiny hamlet with stunning beaches and great views of Skye.

Poolewe sits in the shelter of Loch Ewe, at the mouth of the River Ewe where it tumbles down from Loch Maree. It is a pretty place in an area of spectacular scenery. On its south side is the attractive St Maelrubha's Church. From Poolewe a "B" road continues north along the west shore of Loch Ewe to Inverasdale and Cove.

Inverewe Garden is half a mile across the bay from Poolewe on the A832 and is open all year. Warmed by the Gulf Stream, the site was developed by Osgood Mackenzie from 1862 until his death in 1922. He collected plants from all over the world for the garden he built there. He imported Irish soil and worked to create themed gardens linked by a maze of paths. The NTS Visitor Centre on site has a display charting the development of the garden and also has an excellent book shop.

North from Poolewe the main road follows the shore of Loch Ewe as far as Aultbea, one of a number of settlements scattered along the north-eastern shore of Loch Ewe. It then cuts inland, to emerge at Laide, confronted by fabulous views over Gruinard Bay to Gruinard Island and far beyond. A series of attractive beaches skirt the bay and a number are easily reached from the main road. The beach at Mellon Udrigle offers especially spectacular views.

Kinlochewe is an excellent base for outdoor activities and has good tourist facilities. It sits at the junction of the A832 heading north-west to Gairloch and the A896 heading south-west into the remote districts of Torridon and Applecross. Ten miles east of Kinlochewe is the little village of Achnasheen where there is a railway station and another significant road junction.

Kinlochewe lies close to but not quite at the south-eastern end of the beautiful Loch Maree, beyond which rise the fantastic rocky ramparts of Slioch, The Spear, a 3,215ft mountain. The climb of Slioch starts at Incheril, near Kinlochewe and is a long and very beautiful mountain trek into the edge of the "Great Wilderness" that lies beyond. A mile north-west of Kinlochewe is the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre. Open during the summer months only, the Centre sells pamphlets describing two excellent walks in the reserve. One, a woodland trail through the forest, is an easy walk. The second takes in high ground to the north of Beinn Eighe and is a more strenuous proposition.

Going south-west, the road follows Glen Torridon beneath the looming presence of two magnificent mountains, Beinn Eighe (3,313ft) and Liathach (3,461ft). Both provide excellent walking, but none of it for the inexperienced. The ground is rough and steep, the area remote, and weather in Torridon can change rapidly. At the end of Glen Torridon, where it meets Loch Torridon is the village of... Torridon. The village is at the point where it meets the sea and where visitors will find accommodation, shops and facilities. At the east end of the village is the Torridon Countryside Centre.

The road west along the northern shore of the loch is both scenic and dramatic as it winds its way first along the shoreline and then climbs through cliffs and gorges. It also provides access to the foot of the third of Torridon's three great mountains, Beinn Alligin. Further west the road comes to an end in the beautiful village of Lower Diabaig. On the south side of Loch Torridon the road continues to the village of Shieldaig. This is a picturesque place adorned with whitewashed cottages set against a stunning mountain backdrop. Near the centre of the village overlooking the loch is the excellent Tigh an Eilean Hotel.

From Shieldaig you have the option of taking in the remote Applecross Peninsula and its stunning views across to the northern end of Skye. There used to be only one road in, the Bealach na Ba, or Pass of the Cattle: steep, demanding - almost alpine in appearance - and prone to problems in winter. The village of Applecross lies where the mountain road meets the sea and the excellent Applecross Heritage Centre can be found nearby. South of Applecross is a string of villages well worth exploring, including Camusterrach, Ard-dhubh and Toscaig. The alternative route back from Applecross, around the west and north coasts of the peninsula and back to Shieldaig, is rather longer but more relaxing.

Near the eastern end of the Bealach na Ba is the scattered settlement of Kishorn, with the ruins of Courthill House and Courthill Chapel. East of Kishorn is Lochcarron, complete with its shops, hotels and other tourist facilities. As can be seen from the selection of accommodation available on this site, Lochcarron is one of the most practical options for a base from which to explore the area. The lochside road south of Lochcarron leads you past the old ferry slipway at Strome that once carried all traffic heading towards Kyle of Lochalsh. The narrows here are overlooked by the ruins of Strome Castle. The lochside road ends a couple of miles further south-west in Ardaneaskan, which comes complete with a fascinating little Croft Museum.

Driving Tours: Parts of Wester Ross can be explored on our Coigach & Assynt, Gairloch & Poolewe and Applecross & Torridon driving tours. The North Coast 500 also includes much of the coastline of Wester Ross.